Mt Joffre Southeast Face Attempt -
This was my first trip within the Cerise Creek, Keith's hut and Mt Joffre area. Late on Saturday June 18th we hiked up to the Hut. It's a leisurely hike as the trail winds up at an easy grade making me wish I had brought up better food. Once we arrive at the Hut we took a wander of the area to check out the Anniversary Glacier and the surroundings finding out that the area had just received about 20cm of new snow. Due to the warm weather and the fresh snow we decided to make an early morning attempt on the Southeast Face in an attempt to beat out the snow melt and detoeriorating conditions.
After a gnarly sleep listening to some dude with sleep apnea in the hut, then trying to sleep on the porch, and then waking up to rain and then crawling under the hut, we awoke at 4am to make our attempt. The hike was easy going at first not having to deal with any crevasses or technical terrain. Eventually the route steepens as we headed up the ramp to the top of the first big buttress topping out at about 2300 metres...I think?. The snow was progressively getting deeper, wetter and less stable. As we approached the last rock face to the summit at about 7:30 am the sun was coming out warming the snow. Small slides were beginning to come down the face, not big enough to be a concern but we were worried about the stability on the descent. It was warming up fast so we decided to retreat leaving the summit for another time.
As we got back down to the hut we saw at least a few large slides coming down from the top of Joffre confirming that a retreat was the right choice, but it's alway hard when your only a few hundred metres from the summit.